National Park of Šumava and german neighbouring National Park Bavarian forest were always one of my favourite locations both for photography and for wandering. If I want to get away from the civilization, this is my best bet. Moorlands and streams hidden in wild forests which now naturally recover after bark beetle calamity are all just ideal landscape which changes directly in front of the lens.
Morning on Lusen
The summit of Lusen is undoubtedly one of my favourite places to watch the sunrise or sunset from. Not only does it offer a perfect circular view, but there is always an interesting foreground in the form of moss-covered granite boulders. This time I explore the southern part of the summit all the way down to the first trees. The sun works its magic beautifully on the boulders and creates pleasant colour gradients on the distant hills.
Kohlschachten
This year the wind blew the leaves off the trees in the mountain pastures already in September. At first, I regret a little that the local solitary trees lost their colourful crown so early. But when the fog and creeping cold suddenly come with the evening, the texture of the twisted branches stands out all the better.
Twilight Dancers
Twisted trees in high mountain pastures are a rewarding subject by themselves. The unusual shapes stimulate the imagination, which works somewhat differently amidst the vast forests. When fog comes in, the atmosphere is at its best in autumn. Occasionally, as dusk falls, the fog begins to dissipate and remains only in a band low to the ground, while the sky above glows with all its colours.
In a land of mirages
Autumn fogs are inseparable part of the Šumava mountains. This relationship is even better since the local ridges are decorated with dead old forests. Dead trees emerge from the rolling fog like floating skeletal mirages.
Sunrays in fog
A morning in the woods among the peat bogs promises an interesting spectacle. The low-flying mist softens the contrast and adds depth to the scene, so that when the first rays of sun shine in, there are endless eye-catching views through the trees.
Forest sculpture
A creeping fog clings to the shallow saddle between neighbouring hills. Here the forest changes every year, the old giant trees disappearing at a fast pace to be replaced by a new generation of forest. From time to time, a sculpture of roots commemorates a fallen giant.
Mists at Březník
Not so long ago, the grove on Březník and the whole Luzen valley were surrounded by a grey forest of dead trees. In such a form I actually experienced the most charming valley of Šumava for the first time. Today, only a few dead trees shyly emerge from the ocean of the new green forest. What hasn't changed, however, are the typical mists boiling here, at the bottom of the frosty valley.
Třístoličník
The view from the summit of Plechý towards Třístoličník reveals that this part of Šumava has only recently been swallowed by the bark beetle. However, the time when the view is dominated by the dead trees is limited, soon the dry trunks will crumble and new forest will overgrow them. Until then, it will still be possible to capture the raw beauty of the skeletal trees here.
Twilight on the Trojmezná
The rocky peak of the Trojmezná Mountain surrounded by pine shrubs looks in the context of Šumava mountains like a unique green island rising from the sea of dead trees. Bark beetle affected these areas a little later than the central part of the mountain range, so the dead trees still often form a substantial part of the composition here. View towards Plechý a few minutes after dusk.
Old forest at Trojmezná
Only a minimum of the upper parts of the Šumava Mountains provide a combination of dead trees with green pine shrubs. One of such places is the area around the top of the Trojmezná Mountain. When the blueberries turn red in autumn and the evening sun colours the landscape, the local nature offers an almost endless variety of motifs.
Morning in Lusen valley
The typical autumn fog does not arrive during the morning, but the atmosphere at Březník is compensated by the sun rising over Mokrůvka hills. The surface of the Luzenský brook reflects the clear morning sky and the first golden blades of grass become even more luminous.
Plešné lake
As the sun rises above the horizon, the calm surface of Plešné Lake reflects the brightening morning sky. At lower elevations, the mists slowly thin, rolling lazily from valley to valley. An autumn morning in the wilderness on the slopes of Plechý.
A gamekeeper's house lost in the woods
I became fond of the central Bohemian Forest and the Bavarian Forest at a time when most of the trees died after the bark beetle calamity. So I had (and have) it probably different than most people. The dead trees gave the landscape a new face. Maybe depressing, maybe dramatic, maybe wild. Either way, unique and beautiful in its own way. I feel somewhat bittersweet overlooking a gradual green renewal and overgrowth of familiar sights. Views past the standing dead trees are becoming increasingly rare, and there are only a few original sites left where they can be found in the central part of the mountains. One of these can be found above the old grove on Březník amidst the green seas. When it "works out" and a colourful sunrise comes after the rain, it is virtually a guarantee of a good photograph.
Lusen
I don't think I've ever experienced a morning when I returned from the Lusen mountain area without a single photo. Although the local hills are not very favourable to large panoramas, there are countless views and landscape details. It doesn't matter whether the landscape is enveloped by fog and heavy rain or golden sun, the local wilderness offers an endless variety of subjects. At times, however, the conditions are practically perfect. For example, when the low autumn sun shines under the clouds and over the ridges covered with matchstick-like dead trees to the young green branches.
Autumn wilderness
The slopes above Rachelsee are covered with wild mixed forest. Orange beeches and yellow birches find space on the rocks among the spruces. Most of them are relatively young, only here and there a surviving giant spruce stands out among them. The old dead trees here too form only isolated clusters rising like matches above the surrounding vegetation. This is how I imagine the original Central European mountain forest.
Alps from Lusen
Lusen is my favourite peak in the whole Šumava / Bavarian forest, maybe even in general. It offers unrestricted views of the whole mountain range and, in good conditions, even the 160 km distant peaks of the Alps. I remember the first time I saw them from here, barely visible in the grey haze, yet surprisingly recognisable and close. Likewise, I will remember this morning, when the Alps were visible more clearly than ever.
From Rachel to Lusen
Only autumn can produce vivid, rich shades of red in the landscape. I like this view from Rachelto the rocky peak of Lusen, even though it is practically right next to the main way leading to Rachel. I have been here many times, but never in sufficiently interesting light. This time the golden sun shone into the thick branches of the dead spruce and into beech forests in the valley below.
Colorful night
This evening on the top parts of the Bavarian Forest is unforgettable. A group of clouds approaches from the west and lasts well into the night. Perhaps a little surprisingly, it is only when the sun is long below the horizon that they turn to the wildest colours. My fascination with the shape and form of dead trees persists even after many years, so I look for a suitable group to complete the composition. The task is getting harder as new tenacious forest is already growing everywhere.
From Rachel
Morning view from Kleiner Rachel towards Bavaria and the distant peaks of the Berchtesgaden Alps with the prominent Watzmann peak. Perhaps never in my life have I seen the Alps so clearly from the Bavarian Forest as on this sunny weekend. And to top it all off, amazing clouds sit down in the valleys.
Rachelsee
The forests around Rachelsee lake are changing rapidly. Where there was a barkbeetle affected forest years aago, a new forest is growing. The only section that remains the same is on the inaccessible side of the lake. A lone spruce and a large boulder catch my eye every time I come here. This time the view in this direction is even more interesting, the beeches are autumn coloured and the surface of the lake is decorated with streaks of rays shining through the trees.
Encounter
Central European forests are full of life. If I were to count similar encounters, I probably wouldn't be able to, there have been just too many. But there are rarely the right conditions to capture them and rarely enough time. This time, neither was lacking. The centered composition with distinctive framing was the first thing that came to mind, and ultimately the best.
Mists below Lusen
It's long before sunrise, the horizon barely lightens as the fog in the valley begins to dissipate. It drifts through the trees, some moments there is more of it, some moments less. The flowering grasses glisten with dew in the cool morning. The pyramid of Lusen mountain looms over the valley.
Luzen brook
The mist rises over the Luzenské Valley before sunrise. Only the slopes of Mokrůvka are still shrouded in a light haze. It is still pretty chilly out here, the valley has not earned the title of the coldest place in the mountains by chance. When light clouds approach from the west, I capture a prepared composition with the curving Luzenský stream and the reflection of the trees in its dark water.
Morning at Zhůří
The former settlement of Kepelské Zhůří - Haidl am Ahornberg on the Křemelná river. Only a restored chapel, old crosses by the roads, stone foundations of houses and isolated old trees remind that there was once a settlement here. I like in particular one tree standing aside, and when the first rays of sunlight touch its crown, it seems downright fabulous. But the place remains strangely eerie.
Březník
The night of the Perseid maximum promises up to 80 falling meteors per hour. But on the way to Březník I already suspect something is wrong - I don't see any of these meteors falling. I try several half-hour sequences, meanwhile I see a total of 3 perseids falling, all out of frame. So I shoot at least the Milky Way, at the point where the Březnický brook meanders and a chill rises from the water.
Vltava springs
From the overnight camp at Bučina I rush after midnight to the Vltava springs, where I remember an area with dead trees. I like the skeletal silhouettes of dead trees against the night sky, I don't even think about a different composition. I hope that at least today, the night after the maximum, I will be able to capture some perseids. I set up an one hour long sequence and watch the sky dance. Today it is good, today perseids are falling! I wonder if I should make a wish...
Under the Hadí Hill
Under the Hadí Hill near Kepelské Zhůří I prepare a composition already shortly after dusk. There is an old tree here that will create an interesting composition with the main branch pointing directly towards Polaris and the imaginary centre of the rotating stars. At 11 o'clock after the first alarm, I set the camera on the prepared tripod and turn on the sequence of 360 x 30 seconds. At 2am after the second alarm the scene is captured. Foreground averaged from multiple frames.
All trees must fall
I was really happy I decided to go to Steinfleckberg once I discovered this location. Away from marked trails this place feels like wilderness. Had plenty of time trying new compositions with this nice fallen tree and got prepared for this shot once the sun set.
From Steinfleckberg to Lusen
So many times I was on Lusen and looked towards nearby Steinfleckberg. However I have never been there. This time I decided to try something new and went to Steinfleckberg. While I was sure the summit of Lusen is crowded with people watching the sunset, I was completely alone here.
Stone sea on Lusen
After a whole day spent trapped in fog I did not expect much from the susnet at Lusen mountain and got surprised once again. While it lasted just for a few moments, stone sea on Lusen got painted by yellow light.
Spectres in the fog
Thick Šumava fog engulfs the border ridges. There is not a living thing, not even birds singing, only a strange silence deafening the eardrums. The dead forest below Blatný hill comes alive with old legends at every nervous turn, and thousands of skeletons seem to want to reach out their rotting hand to the lonely photographer.
Skeletal forms
Grenzsteig (border trail) leads not only through wild forest but also through bogs. Shapes can get really strange there and encourage fantasies while emerging from the fog.
On the grenzsteig
Oh, how I love the fog! Especially when there are so many interesting shapes and forms around as there are on the border trail. I chose centered composition for this image to emphasize the decaying tree.
Evening in the bogs
The mist was light that evening, slowly creeping over the forests. While I wanted to capture the location with wide angle lens, the mist made details more interesting. Evening sun getting through added that orange pinkish colour cast and made forest mysterious.
From the world of forest solitude
Usually referred as the most beautiful valley in the mountains, Březník is quite a stunning place closed by the dominant cone of Lusen mountain. I spent the evening looking for the best composition. Finally, those trees in the foreground and remains of former reservoir made me settle for this place off all the main trails. I watched the slopes turn orange and pinkish but the best conditions occured once small separate clouds appeared and sunlight hit just the tip of Lusen.
Darkest hour of night
According to the forecast, the evening cloud should have dissolved by night and the Milky Way should be in ideal position around 1 a.m. When I leave my sleeping bag and the temperature is just slightly above zero, there are only small clouds remaining above Germany and Milky Way is exactly where it was supposed to be. Separate exposure for stars and bulb for landscape.
Spring brook
Sometimes it is only a small detail that makes you stop like this marsh-marigold that was placed in the middle of the brook waiting to be captured. As it was still quite early in the morning, light was interesting enough and I got this shot by surprise.
Murky waters
Chaluská peat-bog is one of the most visited and photographed locations in Šumava which should by itself keep me far away from it. However there must be something special about this place as it remained my strongest childhood memory from this region. I remember it being beautifully dreary with black swampy waters swallowing grey dullness of reflecting clouds. Luckily it stays the same in this regard so I like coming back. In terms of composition it is only about keeping the birch reflection far from small grassy island. Apart from that taking the shot is only about waiting for better light.
Somewhere else
Condition were not ideal that evening on Lusen. For more than one hour the clouds were moving from the west directly to the mountains diffusing the golden hour light too much. 5 minutes to the sunset the clouds definitively arrived and took me somewhere else - into the fog with no light at all. Possibility of capturing the whole landscape in the best light was gone with fog so I could only hope for it to get thinner allowing some light through. And it happened!
The crooked one
The forests around Lusen are green again after several years. The force of nature is visible the best in autumn when grass turns yellow and ferns turn red so that the trees are the only green element in the landscape. The crooked bush on the Lusen itself is one of the few things present there apart from stones.
The last cold tones
Moorlands cool down quickly during nights and remain the last islands of cold in otherwise warm mornings. I was on Zwieselterfilz just on time to capture the contrast between the cool and the warm tones of that morning.
Night in the wilderness
When the skies are clear and the Moon is below the horizon it is still possible to experience really dark nights even in the middle of Europe. On those nights the Milky Way is not just noticeable but all its details clearly visible by the naked eye. Accompanied by the sounds of the forest (squirels, deer, owls) it is pure magic.
Morning haze
When the new day started I was already on the way. Nothing can ever really compare with the mood of walk through morning dew when first sunrays hit the mists.
Morning on Jährlingsschachten
The sun was rising over the ridge of Poledník (Mittagsberg) whose top lookout tower and former radar station is visible in the left part of the picture. I really appreciated the warmth of the first sunrays after freezing night on Jährlingsschachten meadow.
Höllbachfälle
Autumn colors in Hell brook´s gorge. Brook makes its way through clenched canyon full of maples and beeches. In the rockiest part 5 metres high Höllbachfall falls and creates wonderful scenery.
Höllbachgespreng
In the past times woods in Hell brook´s gorge were feared as entrance to hell. Thanks to that these offer photographic paradise of pure wilderness even today. Add some autumnal fog and the atmosphere is just ideal.
Night ghosts
It was getting dark and my way was fading in dense fog when suddenly I was able to see the ridge on my left side with tree ghost rising from the silence. I tried to capture the unforgetable atmosphere of upcoming night quickly setting up my tripod and camera before all the fog was gone.
Eternity
New moon night prepared some wonderfull show. Milions of stars and Milky way in the arc high over your head and over dead trees. This type of photography repeatedly shows limitations of my camera. Altough stars are clearly visible by the naked eye, ISO must be bumped up to reproduce the same in photograph which results in high noise. Captured by the the Kirchlinger Stand meadow.
Burning forest
You can say my album is "dead tree a hundred times" but I was always fascinated by its strange cold beauty. There are always new ways of seeing these woods - creepy, disgusting but full of unknown shapes and beautiful in its skeletal form at the same time. Same applies for the photography - always new conditions in which you find these forests.
Kirchlinger stand
Freezing in the cold morning paid off once the Sun started to paint the skies. On the edge of this meadow I found fallen trees, slowly disappearing in the grass and used them as a foreground for my shot.
Reschbachklause
Old reservoir formerly used for timber floating is now slowly overgrowing and surrounding bark beetle-damaged forest naturally restoring. It was noontime when I took this photograph but clouds and colors seemed interesting enough to me to take it. View towards border with Czech Republic.
Deep frozen
Pathway between Almschachten and Verlorener schachten in morning light. Glittering hoarfrost on the grass and trees combined with clear sunrays prepared this shot.
Almschachten
Waking up early and before sunrise is always hard. Sometimes you have to sacrifice the comfort of warm sleeping bag and get to the freezing air outside of your tent to get this type of photographs. Conditions were especially good that day, with remains of snow and frozen grass in the foreground and with purple horizon. Shot on highland meadow of Almschachten.
Hochschachten
I arrived to Hochschachten pasture after the sunset and didn´t even hope to get some shots there. The light was still quite good though so I took this image looking towards Grosser Arber with its summit hiding in cloud.
Hochschachten
My favourite tree on Hochschachten pasture located in its lower part. Sun was already set and clouds were rather dull. Still snow maps caught my eye and I took 4 vertical shots for this stitched image.
Kleine Ohe brook
Little waterfall
Cloudy oceans
View from Lusen towards southeast. Stones on top of the mountain caught last sunrays of that day while lower hills and forest were hiding in foggy blanket.
Spirits of the dead wood
Mysterious forest as seen from the Lusen mountain. Got really lucky back then with superb conditions of fog spreading just above the ground so that those skeletal trees could appear like rising from nowhere. Since then fog with dead trees make for one of my most favourite subjects in photography. In 2018 most of these trees are not standing anymore.
Ilusory forest
For a long time was this shot just in my mind. Coincidence I cropped it from original image 3 months after creating this album... The darkest place is under the candlestick.
Greetings, mountains
Brocken spectre displays magnification only of nearby objects. Among climbers is said that when you see it first time, you are welcome in the mountains. Second time you are in danger and risk of death in the mountains. Third time you see it you are seasoned mountaineer. Bad luck, this was my first one...
Old woods in Teufelsloch (Devil´s pass)
People were affraid of this place with steep rocky formations. Devils allegedly threw hot cones on travelers here...
Hamerský brook