An island located on the boundary between the American and Eurasian lithospheric plates. A land of fire, ice and moss, constantly buffeted by winds blowing in from the ocean. Bluish glaciers, jagged cliffs and black sand, pastures and waterfalls. Smoke and hot springs. A land rough and cold, yet, or perhaps because of it, utterly unique.
Sunrise over the lagoon
The morning is clear, with only a light cloud cover over the vast Vatnajökull ice cap. At the right moment, when the first pinkish tones light up over the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier, we are already waiting in the stiff frost and bitter wind on the shores of the glacial lagoon. Yesteday evening I have found a spot here with a trio of small ice islands, which at least partially compensate for the absence of ice shrubs in the lagoon. No shrubs are breaking off from the glacier due to the hard frost in recent days.
Kirkjufell
A clear morning on the Snæfellsnes peninsula, below the iconic Kirkjufell mountain. The sunrays are hitting the perpendicular face of the trapezoidal mountain with all their might. I match the composition with the foreground, which is dominated by a trio of ice-encased boulders. A simple and clean scene that doesn't need much further editing.
Majestátní Kirkjufell
Probably the most famous and most photographed peak of the whole Iceland, Kirkjufell, from the less known western side. My original plan to photograph from the famous waterfall was thwarted by the loss of the lens cap. During the search we discover the bends of frozen streams spilling across the grassy plain. The sky gradually turns colourful and the gentle rays of sunlight lean on the mountain itself. An unforeseen composition comes out unplanned. And the cap manages to appear in the tufts of grass as well.
Dýrholaey
The massive rock arch, the southernmost promontory of the island, resists the constant tide. The place is rough and rugged, deserving of a coldly brooding, almost gloomy atmosphere. After a bright day, I wait for sunset as if at mercy, after which the brightness of the landscape levels out. With the blue hour everything darkens and matches my imagination. As the light fades, the exposure time lengthens, smoothing the ocean surface and blurring the whiteness of the waves.
Black sand beach
Waves crash one after another against the edge of the black beach, and beat relentlessly against the distant rock arches of Dýrholaey. After a night of predatory waves, the sand is smoothed out, only here and there a shining boulder rises from it. The harsh dark beauty of South Iceland contrasts sharply with the poetic morning reds.
Solar storm
Solar storm in full glory, Kp index between 6-7. The lone building at the end of Grundarfjörður bay glows into the night, enhancing the remote atmosphere of the north. Brutal cold binds the sea with a crust of ice, the ice crackles as a perfectly silent spectacle plays out in the sky. The glow comes in a wall of green, only to slowly gather strength. Luminous bands dance across the night sky, gradually adding red tones. Absolute happiness in absolute winter.
Kirkjufell aurora
A solar storm is brewing after midnight, especially on the southern horizon. The northern one remains surprisingly dark, only later green bands start to form there as well. I walk down to the frost-covered boulders on the ocean shore, just as the aurora intensifies directly over the majestic Kirkjufell Mountain.
In the glacier of volcano Katla
The blue beauty of a glacial cave. Beneath Katla volcano, the elements mix - freezing ice and volcanic ash. The ash, a remnant of hot lava eruptions, paints fantastic black stripes in the ice. In fact, the ice of the glaciers here never completely freezes, its temperature hovering around 0°C. That's why strong winds carrying sand grains can carve fantastic shapes in it.
Stóra Dímon
It is not a long climb up Stóra Dímon, as it measures only 185 vertical metres. As we crest the grassy ridge, a gust of wind hits us like a runaway train. Standing here is impossible, in fact we are literally crawling on the ground, our eyes are constantly watering from the wind and our hands are freezing. But below us... it's hard to put into words... is the most amazing view we've seen in Iceland yet. The river spills out in a black sandy bed and flows down a series of arms to the ocean. Above it, rounded volcanoes covered with vast glaciers blush red. A random hill and Iceland's greatest surprise.
Brúarfoss
Brúarfoss waterfall, which you have to walk about 4 kilometres to get to, which in Iceland means you're practically walking alone. The whole path goes through a forest of stunted birch trees and here and there approaches a river with more or less interesting rapids. The final waterfall is definitely worth it. It spills over a rock plate in a bizarre landscape, only to collapse a floor below in the middle of it in a kind of funnel. Moreover, the turquoise waters flowing wildly can be watched from the narrow bridge that gives the waterfall its name.
Kleifarvatn
The frozen smooth surface of the volcanic lake Kleifarvatn contrasts sharply with the rough volcanic landscape. During the day, the clouds come in and the light conditions get worse. But we stay at the lookout over the lake until late. The blue hour conjures up a unique frosty atmosphere.
Mossy wasteland
The volcanic landscape of the Reykjanes Peninsula is often complemented by vast plains covered with greenish carpets of Icelandic moss. At first glance, the thousands of years old rare moss looks fantastic. The subtle transitions in the moss canopy are enhanced by the overcast sky.
Jökulsárlón
Most of Iceland is still fast asleep, with only the highest glaciated peaks reflecting the slowly brightening eastern horizon. The waters of the glacial lagoon remain chillingly dark, as is the surrounding air. The icy wasteland remains empty, with only the head of a sea lion peeking out of the dark waters now and then.
Volcanic dawn
The first rays of sunlight on a cold morning touch the glacier on Eyjafjallajökull volcano. It was on this volcano that an eruption occurred in 2020, melting part of the glacier and covering the sky over Europe with a cloud of ash. It now slumbers peacefully once again in its icy beauty over the pastures and black sands of southern Iceland.
Dusk over the lagoon
The sun has long since set, but the residual light highlights the contours of the ice that has formed on the edges of the Jókullsárlón glacial lagoon. The wind drives the dark waters of the vast lagoon towards the ocean, while the glaciated peak of Öræfajökull volcano slumbers above the lagoon. Its highest peak, Hvannadalshnjúkur, is also the highest point in Iceland.
Búðir
Iconic black church. When I imagined the conditions that would suit this place the best, only two possibilities came to mind: white darkness, from which only the black walls of the church stand out, or heavy clouds with the winter sun shining through. In the end, I managed to capture this place in near-perfect conditions. The afternoon sun shines on the grassy plains around Búðir, while a snowstorm drives over the steep mountains in the background.
Merkjárfoss
A lesser known waterfall hiding slightly away from the main interest. For me personally one of the biggest surprises of the island. Perhaps it was thanks to the unique winter conditions that gave rise to the rich icicle decoration in close proximity to the waterfall. It's hard to resist exploring shallow caves in the early morning and in complete solitude - circumstances increasingly rare in Iceland.
Gljufrafoss
A waterfall hiding in the shadow of its more famous companion. Buried deep in the rock and seemingly invisible, this is Gljufrafoss. But just approach the rock gorge and its secret is revealed in all its glory. When the frost covers the rough rock with icy lace, it creates a perfect masterpiece. Iceland's hidden treasure.
Icelandic coastline
Iceland offers an endless number of breathtaking views, often you just have to stop and look around. The March frost creates a belt of ice on the coast, while the snow-free landscape struggles with the ever-present wind. Only the highest peaks are covered with a dusting of snow. Somewhere between the Jókullsárlón lagoon and Stokksnes.
Vestrahorn
The rough mountains of Vestrahorn tower proudly over the Stokksnes promontory. The wind carries the sound of the sea and forms strange ornaments in the black sand. The mounds, often several metres high, are covered with golden grass, forming soft canopies. Sun leans down and paints them with light and shade. But appearances are deceptive; the wind, frost and open space beneath the mountains make for a harsh and inhospitable place.
Reynisfjara
The famous black beach, which would perhaps deserve bleaker conditions than a colourful sunrise, yet impresses with its rugged roughness. Waves several metres high, crashing down to the basalt cliffs. A relentlessly roaring wind. Flocks of birds circling the petrified trolls of Reynisdrangar.
Gullfoss
The most massive waterfall in Europe. The bluish waters fall with a tremendous roar into the rock crevice, the several kilometres long canyon covered with ice stands out from the surrounding bare, snow-free landscape like a diamond. The spray swirls tens of metres high, freezing everything it clings to.
Skógafoss
The symbol of South Iceland, the massive Skógafoss waterfall. An unstoppable flow of water that almost stops due to the frost. Foamy water that hasn't had time to freeze swirls through the air, wrapping the surrounding rocks in icy lace. The afternoon sun adds a rainbow, appearing between the drops of water.
Fjallsárlón
The unique beauty of bluish ice structures. The lagoon freezing in the hard frost. The cruel wind whipping at your cheeks. Fjallsárlón.