Na konci světa na úpatí And. Nekonečnou travnatou pampou až pod jedny z nejúžasnějších hor světa. Pabukovými lesy a mezi modrými lagunami k rozsáhlým ledovcům. Sníh, déšť a jen vzácně ustávající ostrý vítr vytvářející v dynamické krajině jedinečný zážitek.
Laguna de Los Tres
Sunrise over Laguna de Los Tres as the orange glow of the sun reaches the glaciers below the highest peaks. It's two kilometres from the lake's surface to the pointed Fitz Roy peak, which dominates all views around El Chaltén. I was looking for a composition in which Fitz Roy would be disturbed as little as possible by the prominent lower hill on the opposite side of the lagoon. It is therefore necessary to climb a little higher up the moraine towards Cerro Madsen. Here, moreover, the mountain rises directly above the lake and the view is not disturbed by the tourists staying down near the surface. Argentina.
Lago Torres
At the moment of sunrise, the clouds begin to dissipate to reveal a trio of monumental granite towers. The first rays of sunlight touch the glacier and the wall below the towers, lighting up the landscape with a rich orange light. The surface of Lago Torres remains dark even against the snow-covered surroundings. The only chance to capture sunrise I had at Base Torres is more than satisfactory. Chile.
Cuernos del Paine
The lower parts of the Torres del Paine are covered with many dead trees and bushes after repeated fires. These are an interesting landscape aspect that enhances the rugged beauty of the mountains. On the way to Mirador Cuernos there are fascinating views through the twisted dead branches. At the very end, the turquoise waters of Lago Nordenskjöld complete the scene. Chile.
Glacier Grey
Before dawn at Grey Glacier. The glacier splits into two smaller ones around Ísola o Nunatak Island, ending its journey in the waters of Laguna Grey. A number of icebergs float on its surface. The overcast sky before sunrise is not lacking in texture, giving the clouds a dynamic impression. The blue tones of the departing night underline the cold atmosphere of the Patagonian mountains. Chile.
Torres del Paine
One of the best views of central Torres del Paine. The shores of the turquoise Lago Pehoé are decorated with impressive shrubs and old trees, the lake itself is made up of several bays and a set of islands in the middle. The view is dominated by the peak of Paine Grande and the Cuernos del Paine massif. When the soft morning light shines into this fairy-tale landscape, it is hard to leave. Chile.
Morning rainbow
An overcast morning prepares for a surprise sunrise. These are the best ones, and this was no exception. The distant glaciated mountains turn red in the first rays of the sun and the morning rainbow forms above them. The rarely calm surface of Lago Grey adds its blue colour to the colour range. Chile.
The punk
An endless pampas stretching from horizon to horizon on a cold morning. The clouds moving in bands are illuminated by sun from below, while the nearby landscape remains in dim light. A vast array of bones and carcasses lie among the tufts of grass, giving an oppressive impression in the otherwise empty and uniform pampas. I search for a long time for a distinctive skeleton as a scale in the foreground. As soon as I see this large skull, I know I'll spend some time searching for composition around it. I enjoy it in the context of the tuft of grass that "grows" like a hair from the top of the skull. Argentina.
Perito Moreno
The seventy-metre high face of the Perito Moreno glacier ends in the cold waters of Lago Argentino. The glacier, which has long been one of the last to hold the status of an unreceding glacier, has apparently also begun to thaw in recent years. However, the size of the run-off is still enormous: the front face is almost five kilometres wide and distance to the mountains in the background is over 16 kilometres. In the morning, when the sharp sun has not yet shone through the clouds, the atmosphere at the glacier is at its peak. Without too much contrast, the bluish hues of the old ice stand out the most. Argentina.
Fitz Roy
Below the prominent Fitz Roy peak lies a pair of lagoons. Laguna Sucia and Laguna de los Tres, a good 400 metres higher. The summit itself is more than further two kilometres above its surface. The scale of the landscape is hard to grasp even on location. Argentina.
A hidden vista
Off the main trail, in the hills above El Chaltén, there is a viewpoint that captures the whole of Patagonia. The wind-whipped southern beeches, blushing with autumn, contrast sharply with the snow-capped mountains and a glacier. A wide river meanders through the forest and a body of water, in this case Laguna Torre, ties everything together. With fewer clouds, the view would be dominated by the high rock spire of Cerro Torre. Argentina.
Morning light over the mountains
The open pampas offers views even of relatively distant mountains that are otherwise difficult to reach. I take advantage of this during one dramatic morning, when heavy cloud cover lingers over the entire Andes range, with only a cloud-free band in the east. As the sun rises, expected happens and the snow-covered peaks and thick clouds are illuminated by the red rays of the sun. Argentina.
Base Torres
At Base Torres, overcast skies, rain, snow and harsh winds prepare to greet me before sunrise. At that moment, I'm glad that the trio of granite towers is at least almost entirely visible. Suddenly, a few sunrays penetrate the clouds, and within a few more minutes the entire snowy surroundings of the lake and the monumental towers above it are lit up in yellowish light. Chile.
Laguna Torre
After dusk, the colour range around Laguna Torre is reduced to blue, white and black. The slopes, covered with fresh snow down to the water surface, look very good at that moment. At the end of the valley, where the rock spire of Cerro Torre could be normally seen, the clouds thicken and form an impenetrable barrier to the light. The fact that nothing is visible at that moment does not matter much; on the contrary, the clouds accentuate the rugged beauty of the glaciated mountains. With the jagged iceberg in the foreground, I fine-tune the composition until it is almost completely dark. Argentina.
Evening below Paine Grande
The distinctive Cuernos del Paine massif from the less usual side at the foot of the Paine Grande. The evening sun hits the jagged glacier-sculpted walls, among which the rock spire La Espada ('The Sword') stands out, as well as the slopes below. Chile.
View through
The oldest southern beech forests offer unusual views full of twisted branches and folds. Massive trunks covered with moss and ropes of lichen bow to the ground, usually in the direction of the prevailing strong wind. These old growths create a mysterious, almost fairy-tale atmosphere in many places in Patagonia. Argentina.
First encounter with Paine Towers
Across the turquoise waters of the Laguna Amarga, some of the first views of the trio of granite towers emerge. These are the towers that gave the area its name. The bare-walled rock giants peek timidly out of the clouds, while the surrounding mountains are covered in a continuous layer of fresh snow. Even these first glimpses reveal that Torres del Paine do not spark interest by accident. Chile.
Skeleton forest
The path to the Laguna Torre leads through a dense forest most of the way. Only at the very end does the path open up to an amazing view of the snow-capped mountains and, in particular, a section full of dead grey trees. Given the rapid changes in the weather, you don't have to wait too long before the sun's rays illuminate this dead forest. Argentina.
Torres del Paine
At dusk on the lookout over Lago Pehoé towards the central peaks of Torres del Paine. Although the strong evening light does not come through the thick clouds, the landscape is still coloured in cold tones soon after sunset. The unusually calm surface of the lake adds to the magical atmosphere of the coming night. Chile.
Río de las Vueltas
Beyond the village of El Chaltén, the Río de las Vueltas cuts into the landscape in a deep canyon. The brown pampas of prickly pear bushes and the rough canyon walls contrast with the colourful eastern horizon. Argentina.
Frozen pampa
A morning in the vast pampas is an extraordinary experience. The landscape on all sides, consisting only of faint grass-covered hills, is covered with frost after a cold night. Herds of llamas graze everywhere, while the clouds float so low that it seems possible to touch them. The sun adds some colour to the vast emptiness. Argentina.
Mirador Maestri
An unmissable tree on the way to the Maestri viewpoint above Laguna Torre. Its sprawling structure with its rich foliage catches the eye at first glance and provides an eye-catching backdrop to the Torre Glacier and the surrounding snow-capped mountains. Argentina.
Lago Pehoé
Patagonia is not only made up of jagged glaciated mountain ridges and grassy pampas. In between there is a transitional zone of lower mountains and hills, often filled with lakes and swamps. Even the Torres del Paine section south of Lake Pehoé shows this different part of Patagonia. Chile.
Dramatic Fitz Roy
The rays of the rising sun hit the slopes below Mount Fitz Roy, its peak hidden in the clouds. Only the morning reveals the amount of fresh snow clinging just above the forest level. The top of the mountain peeks out tentatively a few times before the clouds swallow it up for good for the rest of the day. Argentina.
Nothofagus forest
The beginning of autumn is coming to the mountain forest, which is mostly made up of the southern beech. The lichen-covered trunks create eye-catching structures, behind which tiny leaves play in every colour from green to red. Argentina.
Ship at the ice wall
The front wall of the Perito Moreno glacier reaches a height of several tens of metres, so the ship floating by seems insignificant in comparison. A few narrow, low clouds flow above the lagoon. Just wait a moment and the sun will shine through and illuminate the forest on the shore. Argentina.